Mikuni bs34 carburetor clean
![mikuni bs34 carburetor clean mikuni bs34 carburetor clean](http://www.robswheels.com/EbayStore9-16-13/Kaw-KZ700-84-CarbsRblt-V088-003.jpg)
It does fart and splutter a bit but it feels smooth and seems to idle well so far. I polished all of the brass parts that I could too, since it all had that brass "gangreen" that it gets over time. I had a 5 gallon bucket with metal basket at one point, I still have the metal basket that I use quite frequently still. Of course the carb dip works as advertised. Heating a bread tie to strip off the plastic coating will give you a thin wire that can be used to poke through those pesky little holes, and follow up with brakleen, then compressed air. Squirt the cleaners through all of the passages. Lacquer thinner, brake clean or carb spray will cut varnish. Boiling is unnecessary, and it removes the sealers used to coat the porosity in the cast metal. Last resort? Just a good cleaning with mineral spirits and a parts brush is a good start.
![mikuni bs34 carburetor clean mikuni bs34 carburetor clean](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/DLldmBzqR_s/maxresdefault.jpg)
So I take it you have done the boil method on numerous carbs, with different chemicals? Since you only get one chance to screw up any given expensive and hard to replace part,I tend to error on the cautious side cut my losses at one set. They will turn dark with just about any type of cleaner I've found if you leave it long enough. What else would you recommend if normal carb dip nor the Yamaha carb cleaner is available? And BTW, yes, boil too long with pine sol or lemon juice and the carb bodies will turn dark. The part I do not agree with is there they instruct you to boil the carbs in pine sol. (solid core wires, resistor caps and non-resistor plugs). All of the stock parts are engineered to work together.
#Mikuni bs34 carburetor clean mods#
Removing the air box and doing a bunch of other mismatched mods will turn a screamer into a sputtering and popping POS.
#Mikuni bs34 carburetor clean manual#
I don't remember where the info is at right now, but just read through the service manual on it.
![mikuni bs34 carburetor clean mikuni bs34 carburetor clean](https://kzrider.com/media/kunena/attachments/14003/IMG_4420.jpg)
They really aren't too difficult to install, if you use the proper procedure. Clean them up with it if you like, but rinse it off right away without the boil order.Īlso Jimbo, these carbs were designed to use the air box. I tried that once years ago, and it turned those once shiny cast aluminum into dull grey funky looking carbs. It looks like these carbs aren't too much different than I have seen.
![mikuni bs34 carburetor clean mikuni bs34 carburetor clean](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/dzWXrayr-wg/hqdefault.jpg)
Louder than stock but not stupid loud like open headers.Nessism wrote: /~cliff/storage/gs/Mikuni_.Rebuild_Tutorial.pdf Straight through, pretty much glass packs. I have UNI-Filters, Mike's 1.5 inch headpipes, Emgo shorty mufflers. I have one up on the pilots and two up on the mains and it runs well. Most likely one up on the pilots and two or three up on the mains will work. You will have to let the bike tell you what it needs. THe UNI-Filters don't flow air the same and can be easier to tune to. Some thing about the way air flows through the filters gives the CV carbs a bit of off idle stumble that can be a PIA to tune out. I don't recall the exact model number but the UNI-Filters perform better. The K&N filters are a good filter on a butterfly or slide type carbs. I have had both the BS38's and BS34's on my 750 kitted 75. In the off idle to mid range is where you will spend most of your time any way. The BS34's Might not give you quite the top end, but the idle to mid range and mid to top transitions are better. If everything is working right the BS38's will give you a bit more top end power.